British archaeologist Robin Coningham talks about a three-year expedition to Nepal, which could rewrite history
When
Professor Robin Coningham's youngest son Gus was five, he was asked at
school what his father did. "He works for the Buddha," said the boy.
Which led to a bit of confusion, recalls Coningham.
But it turns out Gus was not that far off the mark. Last week it
emerged that a team led by Coningham, a professor of archaeology and
pro-vice-chancellor at Durham University, had made a startling discovery
about the date of the Buddha's birth, one that could rewrite the
history of Buddhism. After a three-year dig on the site of the Maya Devi temple at Lumbini in Nepal,
Coningham and his team of 40 archaeologists discovered a tree shrine
that predates all known Buddhist sites by at least 300 years.
The impact of Coningham's work is groundbreaking in many ways. Prior
to this discovery, it had been thought that the shrine at Lumbini – an
important pilgrimage site for half a billion Buddhists worldwide –
marked the birthplace of the Buddha in the third century BC. But the
timber structure revealed by archaeologists was radio-carbon-dated to
the sixth century BC.
"It has real significance," says Coningham, 47. "What we have for the
first time is something that puts a date on the beginning of the cult
of Buddhism.
That gives us a really clear social and economic context... It was a
time of huge transition where traditional societies were being rocked by
the emergence of cities, kings, coins and an emerging middle class. It
was precisely at that time that Buddha was preaching renunciation – that
wealth and belongings are not everything."
 |
| A gold-painted Buddha image in Kathmandu, Nepal. Photograph: Narendra Shrestha/EPA |
The early years of the religion took hold before the invention of
writing. As a result, different oral traditions had different dates for
the Buddha's birth. This is the first concrete evidence that Buddhism
existed before the time of Asoka, an Indian emperor who enthusiastically
embraced the religion in the third century BC.
Legend has it that the Buddha's mother, Maya Devi, was travelling
from her husband's home to that of her parents. Midway in her journey,
she stopped in Lumbini and gave birth to her son while holding on to the
branch of a tree. The research team believe they have found evidence of
a tree in the ancient shrine beneath a thick layer of bricks. According
to Coningham, it became clear that the temple, 20km from the Indian
border, had been built "directly on top of the brick structure,
incorporating or enshrining it".
The painstaking work, carried out every January and February since 2011, was initially intended as a Unesco preservation project and was jointly conducted in sub-zero temperatures by archaeologists from Nepal and the UK.
"We
worked there in January because the water table is so low," says
Coningham. "Unfortunately it's just solid fog for the first three weeks
of the season. You just do not see the sun and it's about three to four
degrees … You wash clothes and you cannot dry them. So you end up with
two pairs of clothes and rather smelly." The archaeologists had to wear
slippers to preserve the site which, at the bottom of a two-metre
trench, picked up much damp. Somewhat incongruously, the slippers were
teamed with hard hats "because of health and safety".
There was no gas-fired heating and power was limited to around 10
hours a day, so each morning at 5.30 Coningham would wash himself with a
bucket of hot water and a cup. The diet, he says drily, was "great if
you like curry and rice and dhal three times a day". The team also had
to contend with thousands of pilgrims visiting the site every day from
Tibet, Thailand and Sri Lanka, each bringing their own rituals. "At any
one time, you were sprayed with cologne, covered with banknotes or had
rice thrown at you," Coningham recalls. "Or there were nuns busy
scraping mortar out from between the bricks and eating it to imbue the
relics and sanctity of this sacred site into their bodies. Sometimes it
can be quite distracting."
But he says that the response of the monks and nuns to their
discovery was "deeply moving and pretty humbling". There was no big
celebration – their reaction was "all that was needed".
The site at Lumbini had been hidden under the jungle until it was
excavated in 1896. Back then, it was identified as the Buddha's
birthplace because of a sandstone pillar that bore an inscription
documenting the visit of Asoka to the site. The earliest levels remained
buried until now.
After
the filming of a documentary about the find for the National Geographic
Channel, Coningham has been dubbed a real-life Indiana Jones – a
description that elicits a polite rumble of laughter. "I was one of
those rather sad children who loved dinosaurs," he says. "My
grandparents used to go to Hunstanton [in Norfolk] and I would spend my
summer holidays collecting fossils there. Then I discovered that a great
way of escaping family holidays was to go on digs, so I started at the
age of 15. Then I discovered you could dig abroad, so in my first year
at university [he studied archaeology and anthropology at King's
College, Cambridge] I decided to specialise in the Indian subcontinent.
That became my life. And if you spoke to my family, they'd say it's
still my life."
His wife Paula, who teaches Greek to A-level students, and his two
sons – Urban, 15, and Gus, 13 – are used to his regular absences,
despite that early confusion about exactly what his job entailed. For
Coningham, the dig at Lumbini was memorable because it has marked "a
deeply rare and exciting time when belief, archaeology and science come
together".
Does he have a personal faith? "I was brought up a Catholic," he
replies. "I had a great-aunt who was a mother superior, so my youth was
full of washing feet, kissing crosses, et cetera. So in a way I suppose
the experience [of this dig] has made me a great relativist. Also for me
it shows we know so little about the early years of the world's great
traditions." But he says that the tenets of Buddhism hold a certain
appeal. "At the moment, I'm balancing this job with the role of
pro-vice-chancellor. So I'm a bureaucrat and it's very tempting, at
times, to think of renunciation," he jokes.
The next site Coningham and his team have been encouraged to look at
is one of the rumoured locations of Buddha's childhood home. Unesco,
with the Japanese government's aid, is funding three more years of
research.
"Buddhism is a growing religion, and within five years there will be
22 million annual pilgrims flying into south Asia," says Coningham.
"That will overwhelm these sites. So the next mission is to start
mapping and planning how they will be protected."
In an area where more than half the population live below the poverty
line, subsisting on less than $1.50 a day, the key will be to balance
the financial benefits of tourism with the need for sustainability and
historic preservation. As the story of the discovery at Lumbini becomes
more widely known, Coningham is hopeful more young people will be
attracted by what archaeology has to offer. "What's really interesting
is it's the ancient civilisations that continue to pull people in," he
says. "Archaeology like this can touch and be of interest to the life of
hundreds of millions of people."
Even if those concerned have to wear damp slippers and work in
freezing, foggy conditions, subsisting on a diet of rice for weeks at a
time? "Well, yes," Coningham laughs. "But that's archaeology for you."
No comments :
Post a Comment